Fashion in the Emirates--by Jason

Unlike its glitzier neighbor to the north, Dubai, Abu Dhabi fashion seems to be a virtual oxymoron. Or perhaps eclectic would be a more culturally-sensitive description of local fashion in the city. Emiratis comprise about 10% of the population in Abu Dhabi (even less in Dubai), and their 'look' makes them nearly impossible to miss in a crowd.

Abu Dhabi fashion is very much a reflection of its diversity: socio-economic, cultural, and religious. Attire in this region, as in much of the world (and particularly in the developing world, I might postulate) tends to be a statement of one’s culture and socio-economic standing as much as one’s aesthetic or personal style. As crass as it may sound, it doesn’t take long living in this town (and Abu Dhabi often feels like a small town on some nameless modern frontier) to be able to discern where someone is from, who they pray to, and on which socio-economic rung they are perched. This assessment can be made based largely on their wardrobe. Work with me here.

For this blogpost I will focus on modern Emirati fashion, which is similar to that of other Khaleejis (Arabs living on the [Persian] Gulf). The look is black and white, depending on gender. I have met only a small handful of “locals” (as UAE Citizens/Emiratis are referred to here) who do not wear the traditional attire.

Emirati women wear what is called the abayya, or thin black floor-length robe. This is worn with the sheyla, or matching black headscarf elegantly wrapped around the shoulders and over the head. The young and hip tend to clip something onto their hair reminiscent of a large, fake chrysanthemum to create the appearance under the veil of voluptuous tresses. Then there are the accessories. This is how Emirati women display their individuality. The key words here are bling bling. The arms of the robe are often elaborately embroidered with all things shiny. Jewelry: two options- diamonds and gold. Shoes: colorful, tall, strappy, often gem-encrusted- usually not so subtle. And let’s not forget the perfume- really not even a remote possibility once one has experienced it. In a couple words: excess and oud. Oud is a traditional Arabic scent derived from a fragrant plant (like frankincense) which is often used as exotic air-freshener in public places. Usually an acquired taste among most Westerners (or foreigners as we are often referred to here). Did I really almost forget to mention the purses? I think the UAE alone keeps Gucci, Prada, Armani, Coach, Louis Vuitton accessories in business.

As for Emirati male fashion, it is very much the male equivalent of the female Emirati look, and just as consistent. White floor-length robes, referred to locally as the kandora. The Emirati dish-dash is similar to that of other Gulf states, including Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, Qatar, Oman. Kandoras are usually meticulously tailored and starched, and are a source of pride among the lucky roughly 10% of UAE’s population (Emiratis) who are the only ones sporting these striking ensembles. The male Emirati look is not complete without the gutra wa hajal, or the generally white (and sometimes checkered red and white) headscarf, held in place by a couple black wool hoops. The Emirati headscarf seems to have a life of its own, and is worn in different styles. The younger or less formal wear the scarf without the hoops, tied around the head.

Male accessories? Ray Ban and Rolex rule the roost here. Designer shades are often worn for all occasions, including often indoors, which is understandable given the exorbitant price tag. Shoes are usually short platform leather sandals- something marketed en masse to Emiratis from Italy. The designer watch market is by no means suffering in these parts either, as the watch is an obvious way to display wealth and individuality. The designer man purse craze has yet to arrive on these shores, but when it does someone in Italy or New York will make a killing. Somehow I’m not holding my breath on this one.