Jason's Weekly Slice: Why I Heart Oman

I'm coming to terms with my mild obsession with our neighbor to the east of the UAE, the Sultanate of Oman.  In fact, like most obsessions, I’m quite enjoying it. My love affair with this classically Arabian country is as much about what it isn’t as what it is.  While there is cultural heritage, natural beauty, and no shortage of friendly Emiratis in Abu Dhabi and throughout the UAE, perhaps it’s easier to

overlook than in Oman.  As opposed to a race to the biggest, tallest, and 7 star-est of everything, Oman is known for the natural beauty of its people and land: spectacular and nearly deserted beaches of white sand and turquoise waters; hilltop villages of stone and adobe surrounded by date palm oases; some of the most authentic Arabian souqs (traditional covered markets) on the peninsula; 

wadis (ephemeral river valleys or washes) providing a dramatic lush contrast to the surrounding dry, rugged moonscape; Omanis in traditional clothing opening their homes to complete strangers for coffee; and, not to be overlooked, herds of wild, and voraciously hungry goats.

I remember my first trip to Oman. This was after maybe a month in Abu Dhabi-- the hottest month of my life to date-- spent in close proximity to the Beach Rotana Hotel’s temperature-controlled pool. I set out on a road trip first with a couple new friends. The anticipation of exploring a new country was accentuated by my new, and surreally confined subsistence existence in Abu Dhabi.

First we drove up to the Musandam peninsula, which sticks out into the eastern Persian Gulf like a dagger, coming only a short boat-ride from Iran. The land here is like Norway’s fjords after millennium of global warming. I saw little villages, palm oases, pristine beaches, dolphins, and rocky cliffs descending into turquoise waters. And wild goats.

From Musandam, one has to leave Oman, travel back into the UAE, and re-enter Oman to reach the road to Oman’s capital, Muscat. The roads in this recently modernized country are excellent. Only the occasional lost camel (or goat) crossing the road will act as a reminder that this is still a (well) developing country.  A few hours later I arrived in Muscat, in many ways the most livable Arabian Peninsula city. My favorite part is known as Muttrah- famous for its historic architecture, covered souq, and wonderfully active and atmospheric fish market. The old town nestled between a half-moon bay and rocky peaks, many of which are crowned by an old Portuguese fort- a reminder that, unlike most of the Gulf countries, Oman was colonized for a time. It also had colonies- including Zanzibar, in Africa. The souq smells of frankincense and myrrh.

One of the highlights in visiting Oman for me is the wadis. These mostly dry washes, some reminiscent of slot canyons in the desert southwest of the USA, are found throughout the country. Wadi Damm ends in crystal clear pools of fresh water (a rarity in these parts), and a luminescent blue pool in a cave, perhaps one of the more atmospheric spots I’ve ever seen. Wadi Tiwi, on the eastern coast where the Gulf of Oman turns into the Indian Ocean, is Oman at its finest. Date palm oases, children in bright-colored traditional clothing running up just to say hi- and occasionally ask for a buck or two, little hilltop villages, traditional narrow canals for irrigation purposes known as felajes. All nestled in a narrow, rocky canyon.

Oman is where I fell in love with Arab culture. Every time I return (four times this last year) I realize why I feel such a strong connection with the people and land. It feels real to me. Simple. The people seem aware of their connection and reliance on the land. Omanis seems to have (so far) found a balance between embracing modern conveniences while not sacrificing their traditions, or souls.